A Few “Lesser Known and Obscure” Facts I Learned While Visiting Spain, Morocco and the Rock of Gibraltar

Bottom line: Travel is the salt and pepper of life.

Janet, my wife, and I enjoyed our most recent trip, an ocean cruise, to parts of these three countries. Perhaps, the following facts will encourage you to consider a visit to parts of our marvelous planet ... the only one we've got.

Janet and I pose during a two-seater

camel ride on Lanzarote Island.

We first flew to Las Palmas De La Gran Canaria, the largest city on the island Gran Canaria, where we boarded the Seabourn Quest.

A view of the Seabourn Quest (foreground).

1) The Canary archipelago lies about 93 miles off the northwestern coast of Africa and 840 miles from continental Europe (Spain proper). They're governed by Spain, having been"adopted"in 1493. If any blame is to be laid regarding that latter development, I'd point my finger at Columbus, if for no other reason than timing and his encouragement to "sail the seas." (He stopped there for ship repairs in 1492 on his voyage to North America.)

2) The name Canary Islands isn't derived from birds of any sort. Instead, the name comes from Berber shepherd dogs used to control sheep and/or goats. Think Spanish variation of "canine."

3) Volcanic in origin, like the Hawaiian and Galapagos Island archipelagoes, the Canary Islands offer a pristine beauty (except perhaps crowded Santa Cruz de Tenerife). However, the islands are dry like the Galapagos, which, by the way, makes them unsuitable to raise cattle per the lack of sufficient quantities of naturally growing grass.

A small view of the beautiful

volcanic terrain of Lanzarote.

4) The first European desalination plant was built on Lanzarote in 1964 to supplement the meager rain water. The desal water helps wet the whistles of residents and some two million visitors each year.

5) Camels were introduced to Lanzarote in the mid-1800's since they handle the dry conditions better than horses. But since mechanization arrived, I suspect they're only used now to grab a tourist buck or two.

Our herky-jerky two-seater

camel ride on Lanzarote.

6) With a little help, grape vines produce fruit on Lanzarote. The vines there were untouched by Phylloxera—the disease which whipped out continental European vines in the mid-late 1800's—and so weren't replaced by American vines from California.

Grape vines are protected from strong

north wind with local lava rock walls.

(They appear to have been dusted for pests.)

7) Lanzarote boasts the longest lava tube in the world at almost five miles (three-and-three-quarters above sea level and one-and-one-quarter below).

A portion of the exposed lava tube has

been turned into at tourist attraction.

And another portion is used for music

concerts due to the acoustic qualities!

8) The movie "Casablanca" WAS NOT filmed in Casablanca, but instead in Tangiers. That's Hollywood for you!

9) The term "tangerine" originally referred to oranges from Tangiers and its surrounds.

10) The Rock of Gibraltar, the southern most tip of continental Europe, is part of the United Kingdom, ceded three times to Britain by Spain. We were informed that Spain currently lusts over Gibraltar, however vestiges of Spanish colonialism persist in Morocco, an irony difficult to miss. (More on that below.)

A view of Gibraltar Rock, one "Pillar of

Hercules," from an observation deck near the tram.

We were lucky enough to see the

second pillar of Hercules in Morocco,

across the Gibraltar Strait.

11) As part of the defense of Gibraltar in 1787, Lt. General Shrapnel of the British Army, utilized exploding shells. And his name stuck!

12) Gibraltar boasts the shortest land border in the world at approx. one mile.

13) Melilla is one of two Spanish enclaves in Morocco. (The other is Ceuta.) As such it has a highly guarded border to dissuade uncontrolled immigration into the European Union.

A sunset on the Mediterranean from

our cruise ship Seabourn Quest.

Walk in beauty, fellow earthlings.

A Few “Lesser Known and Obscure” Facts I Learned While Visiting Singapore, Indonesia & Australia

Bottom line: Nothing ventured ... nothing gained.

Janet, my wife, and I enjoyed our recent trip to these three countries and wished we could’ve continued on. Perhaps, these facts will encourage you to consider a visit to one or more of them.

1) Located at the southern tip on Malaysia, and only 85 miles north of the equator, Singapore, clean and modern, is a forested city and island nation (hot and humid while we were there).

A limited view of Singapore's waterfront from Gardens by the Bay.

2) Singapore is one of two cities, the other Rio de Janeiro, to have a rain forest within it’s city limits, though it is modern and clean.

Noah’s Ark found in Singapore?

3) The second largest exporter of used cars, behind Japan, Singapore heavily taxes vehicles after ten years, which encourages purchase of new cars. That’s one way to cut down on gas consumption and pollution!

4) Singapore hosts several great tourist attractions. We visited Gardens by the Bay and Botanical Gardens.

An elevated view of the Supertree

Grove at Singapore's Gardens

by the Bay.

We toured the Cloud Forest, also part of Gardens by the Bay, where we enjoyed the Avatar Experience.

Here’s the Pandoran Mountain Banshee

that greets visitors to the Cloud Forest.

5) Singapore wants to strengthening it’s position as the hub of shipping (commerce) between the Indian and Pacific Oceans.

6) The current largest super cargo ships can carry more than 24,000 TEUs (standard 20-foot shipping containers). Even larger ships are in planning or construction, and they’ll be able to load and unload in Singapore docks.

7) Street vendors of the past have been relocated to one of a number of Hawker Centers around the city, AKA food courts. We stayed in the heart of the financial district, where we discovered the nearby Hawker Center.

Hawker Center in the historic Lau Pa Sat

(wet market), reportedly housing 200

vendors! (I didn’t count them, however.)

8) With Asian food-selection galore, we enjoyed satay (BBQ skewers of shrimp, beef and chicken with peanut sauce) … and beer.

Janet takes a break from enjoying our

meal at the Lau Pa Sat Hawker Center.

9) Having grown up in Kentucky, I confess my skepticism of some food choices, however.

Dessert made from green beans?

Yeah ... no!

From Signapore, we flew to Bali, one of many of Indonesia’s islands.

10) Indonesia claims to have over 18,000 islands. Some may say more. Some may say less. But what’s a few thousand among friends?

11) Though other Indonesian islands are primarily Muslim, Bali is primarily Hindu.

12) The Balinese perform and enjoy magical and colorful reenactments of religious stories.

The gist? Two male gods fight over a female god!

13) The Indonesian currency exchange rate is approximately 15,000 Rupiahs to US$1. Though I felt rich, I couldn’t keep track of exact prices in dollars. What’s a few Rupiahs here or there?

14) Balinese roads were generally clogged with traffic as the island, about the size of Delaware, has about 4.2 million inhabitants.

15) While there we visited their Monkey Forest, a great source of curiosity … for humans.

I suspected this resident was brushing

up on his/her tool making skills.

A Shakespeare play coming soon?

We boarded a cruise ship in Bali and from there sailed east and south, destined for Sydney via Australia’s Sunshine Coast. However, still in Indonesian waters, we stopped at Lombok Island where we took a short bus ride to a beach, consumed a cocktail, then sailed onward to Rinca Island.

16) Komodo dragons currently occupy five islands, though only Komodo Island is inhabited by humans. Now and then, someone gets bitten. From 1972-2012 twenty-four attacks have been reported, five fatal.

17) Though Komodos can climb trees while young, they loose that ability as they grow in size and weight.

Two smaller Komodos fled up a tree to avoid a larger one.

We sailed past East Timor before stopping in Darwin.

18) The name East Timor can be considered redundant, as Timor can be translated as “east.”

19) Aussies refer to Darwin, in Australia’s Northern Territory, as the “top end.”

20) Darwin was a frequent bombing target by the Japanese during World War II. As result, fuel storage tunnels were built underground, though not used a result of leakage.

This is one such storage tunnel accessible to tourists.

21) BTW, in case you’ve ever wondered, QANTAS (airlines) is an acronym of Queensland And Northern Territories Aerial Services.

22) Did you know that there are more camels in Australia than in Egypt? So many that Australia exports camels to Saudi Arabia. You might ask, how did camles get to Australia? Before the arrival of motorized vehicles, camels were used to haul cargo across Australia’s outback. When motorized vehicles replaced them, some camels were set free to roam. Since then, they've multiplied in the desert like rabbits, I take it.

We stopped at Thursday Island, an area of significant past pearl harvesting, before continuing eastward through the Torres Straits.

A WWII gun emplacement at Green Hill

Fort on Thursday Island. Never used, I believe.

23) Torres Strait is thought to have been a land bridge to Australia during previous ice ages when sea levels were lower. Hence, allowing the settlement of Australia by the Aboriginals. Now a shallow sea, its home to numerous corral reefs, which comprise the northern portion of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.

A map of Torres Strait. Australia claims

the islands northward to the coast of PNG (Papua New Guinea).

24) The Great Barrier Reef is the largest living thing on earth, can be seen from space, and is comprised of some 3,000 individual reefs stretching 1,400 miles along Australia’s northeastern corner/coast.

We sailed on to Cairns,

24) pronounced without the R, as in cans!

Cairns serves as one of many jump-off point for reef snorkeling. However, since Janet and I snorkeled the reef a few years ago, we strolled around and sampled local beer within a few minutes walk from our docked ship.

Sampling "Mr. Wong," a traditionally

styled Hefeweizen at Hemingway’s Brewery.

Sunset as we leave Cairns. Yes, the

tug boat is traveling backwards!

Next came Townsville with its distinctive hill, which I wanted to ascend, though didn’t.

Leaving Townsville at sunset.

25) We anchored near Airlie Beach, located on one of the WhitSundays, a group of islands misnamed by Cook in 1770. The International Date Line not having been established yet, he unknowingly had arrived a day later! We cruised among a few of the white-sand-beach islands and pristine waters on a motorized catamaran.

Twas difficult to get a good selfie with

background on a fast moving boat!

One of the Whitsunday Islands.

Try looking at this island from the side.

Remind you of any relatives?

After our catamaran ride, we headed into Airlie Beach for some local fresh shrimp and assorted meats (you know, kangaroo, crocodile, wild boar and emu).

Next, when our ship stopped at Mooloolaba (Moo-loola-ba, pronounced /mululɑbə/ or moo-loo-lah-bah), we visited the Australian Zoo of Steve Irwin fame. Crikey!

26) We enjoyed the Australian Zoo’s “croc” show. I marvelled at crocodiles’ ability to hold their breath up to two hours, generally ... though as much as seven hours if inactive in cold water.

A demonstration of what a croc will do for food.

27) We walked among kangaroos at the zoo. They can travel at 44 miles-an-hour for short distances, though cannot walk backwards. Those we encountered preferred to move very little, however. I suspect that they were well fed by visitors … and it was the hot part of the day when we visited.

This one’s posture suggested,

Don’t dare touch my food!

From Airlie Beach we sailed to Newcastle, where we visited the Backbutt (pronounce black-but) Nature Preserve, which houses a number of indigenous animals.

A snoozing wombat.

The following morning, our cruise ship glided into Sydney Harbor before sunrise. Once docked, Janet and I disembarked, and headed home on a fourteen-hour flight.

A panoramic view of Sydney.

Walk in beauty, fellow earthling.

Trudging Along (PCT)

Bottom line: Sometimes, all you can do is pick ‘em up, then put ‘em down!

10.16.23, Day 0, “Night of the Rumbling Beasts” -

Mark (Wrongway Mark, that is) and I headed for Tehachapi in preparation for our planned PCT hike between Tehachapi Pass/PCT trial junction and Kennedy Meadows, the driest section of the PCT ... as we were forewarned. Turned out that Bob (aka Dr. Bobo) had arrived at the designated motel rendezvous point ahead of us. From there the three of us headed off for a warm meal and chilled beer before our respective night's rests.

On the cheap, Dr. Bobo and I decided to cowboy camp, so we drove to Cameron Road in Sand Canyon, located in Tehachapi Pass, and chose a level spot alongside the railroad crossing. Bad move! We’d no sooner settled into our sleeping bags when a train approached the crossing, sounding it’s three warning blasts.

Run! Prim8 yelled, amidst the rumbling.

Geez Louise, that’s loud! Sounds like that thing is going to run us over, dude.

Thereafter, repeated every half-hour throughout the night, the lumbering beasts alternated their direction of travel, blasting their way as they went. Aside from attempting to adjust to the audible intrusion all night long, I couldn’t dismiss the idea that a train would run me over, though I knew better.

No! Prim8 complained, or at least it seemed that way, at every train’s approach.

Things can only get better, fella! We won’t be sleeping here again.

Perhaps, I dozed through an intrusion or two ... or just had started to ignore them. I don’t know … didn’t care. I just wanted some sleep.

Since Dr. Bobo would act as rendezvous support, aka trail angel, Wrongway and I could indulge in our hiking regimen, alleviating some overnights on the PCT, reducing the loads of water and food we’d carry, and divvied our hike into segments, alternating directions according to elevation loss and gain, into what seemed a veritable jigsaw puzzle of pieces.

And in my quest to resolve my previous, and recurrent, foot-blister problem, I planned to lubricate my feet—I’d purchased and brought several types to use—wear only one pair of well-fitted socks, and lace my boots tightly at the ankles. Fingers crossed!

Segment One - Landers Camp Road junction (608.9) southbound to Tehachapi Pass junction (566.4), two overnights:

10.17.23, Day 1, “Black Flies” -

Dr. Bobo dropped Wrongway and I at Landers Camp, from where we started our southbound trek. In the meantime, Dr. Bobo would explore potential rendezvous points via accessible roads using Wrongway's RAV4 and meet us at the Tehachapi Pass junction two days hence.

Cool breezes and partial shade provided by tall pines helped prevent profuse sweating as we hiked under clear skies. Innumerable black flies swarmed about our faces as we hiked, only temporarily dissuaded with a wave of a hand. Collectively, they were determined to seek every exposed orifice.

Ahh, Prim8 complained, when I swallowed an wayward fly.

Annoying, ain’t they, Prim8? I took another swipe with one hand to shoo a few away from my face. Why didn’t I think to bring my head net covering?

Both Landers Creek and Cottonwood Creek were flowing with clear water, but Wrongway and I carried a sufficient supply.

By 5:30PM, we arrived at Hamp Williams Pass (596.5), where we set up Wrongway’s tent, snacked, then Wrongway hung our food from a tree. At some point, middle of the night, I realized that my inflatable sleeping pad had gone flat. However, I detected no signs of on-coming foot-blisters. Yay!

No! Prim8 complained, as my body pressed against the ground, which felt like concrete.

Crap! We’ll just have to suffer. I’m too tired to get up to reinflate the pad. Or perhaps, it was laziness? Either way, I wasn’t getting up … be damned.

10.18.23, Day 2, “A Taste of Mud” -

My feet greased, socks snugly adjusted and boots laced tightly, we broke camp at 7:30AM.

Again, black flies swarmed about and pestered us as we moved along the trail until we crossed a ridge, where we enjoyed intermittent breezes, which kept the flies away. Following Wrongway, per usual, I saw him approaching me. He said something about checking the trail. And that perhaps, we’d missed a turn.

No! Prim8 protested, as I watched Wrongway retracing our path.

Oh, wonderful! Suck it up, guy. We don’t have a choice.

Moments later, Wrongway motioned and we retraced our course for about 1/4 mile, until he realized we’d been on a newer section of trail which hadn’t been updated on his map app, further confused by the fact that the National Geographic published PCT maps which also didn’t reflect the newer section.

No, Prim8 protested.

Won’t do us any good to complain, Prim8.

So, once again, we headed southbound toward Golden Oaks Spring (583.3), where we arrived at 5PM. I filled my handy, sidekick, pint water bottle from the trickle of water pouring from the small plastic pipe, took a sip, figuring that would be safe.

Blaah, Prim8 said, face contorted.

Tastes like mud, don’t it? Maybe, we shouldn’t be drinking this without treating it first.

Perhaps, nearby resident cows were having their way at my potential expense! Wrongway, on the other hand, filled a 1.5 liter bottle and then filtered that into another bottle, miraculously turned the muddy, weird tasting fluid into quite decent spring water ... or so he said.

Camp set, food and water consumed, Wrongway hung our food in a tree, though we had our doubts that a bear would sniff us out on any nightly rounds, but who knew?

No, no! Prim8 bitched during the night, my sleeping pad gone flat again.

What’s wrong with that thing? Though I conducted a cursory examine, I spotted no rips or tears, nor heard a leak. At least, we didn’t get foot-blisters today, fella.

10.19.23, Day 3, “The Oven” -

Up and away at 6:50AM—anti-foot-blister regimen completed—before sunrise, and under clear sky, we trudged along as the trail ascended. Without the cover of trees at that point, and exposed to full sun, perspiration ran freely.

Hot, Prim8 complained.

I paused to wipe my forehead and catch a breath. Yep. You’ll get no guff from me about that, fella. I would’ve guessed the temperature to be 85-90 degrees, but regardless, I only cared about our rendezvous with Dr. Bobo at the Tehachapi Pass junction (566.4).

Approaching PCT junction with Tehachpi Pass/Highway 58 & Cameron Road exit.

Seemed an interminable distance, but Wrongway and I reached the rendezvous point at 4PM. I consumed about 2/3 of a beer, chilled in the cooler, before we headed to the Red House BBQ Restaurant in Tehachapi for dinner.

Wrongway wanted to spend the night in a motel in Mojave.

Yes, Prim8 demanded at Wrongway’s first mention.

Sounds good to me, fella. I’m tuckered.

After we’d checked into said MO . . L, according to the large neon sign in front, I showered, then dunked my sleeping pad into a partially-filled tub of water, attempting to locate the problem. But, no ... I couldn’t find a leak. There had to be one somewhere!

I’d hoped for a good night’s sleep, but a plague of hiccups dictated otherwise. And those hiccups continued throughout the night, my usual remedy failing! To boot, my upper legs ached. But, glory be, I detected no foot-blisters, and considered that perhaps, I’d discovered a solution to that nagging, painful issue. So, I decided I’d continue my AM foot routine each day before I sashayed down the trail.

No! No! Prim8 protested about one thing, then another.

Are we having fun, yet, Prim8?

Segment Two - Landers Camp Road trail junction (608.9) northbound to Dove Spring Canyon Road trail junction (621.9), no overnights:

10.20.23, Day 4, “Hiccups Galore” -

Wrongway and I parted with Dr. Bobo at Landers Camp Road junction at 10AM. Cool breezes helped prevent black flies from continuously molesting us, and our hike, descending downhill over the thirteen-mile course, went smoothly ... and quickly, it seemed.

We arrived at an intermediate rendezvous point with Dr. Bobo at the trail intersection with Kelso Valley Road where we encountered a large cache of 5-gallon water bottles.

Water cache for PCT Hikers at Kelso Valley Road trail junction.

After consuming sandwiches, courtesy of Dr. Bobo, we continued northbound, destined for Dove Spring Canyon Road intersection (621.9).

Utilizing our three-way make-shift communication network of two Garmin InReach Mini devices and cell phones, Cabo sent a message to Dr. Bobo, requesting a replenishment of a few items, including beer. I added Prilosec to our list, thinking that would at least settle my indigestion … and hopefully quash my hiccups.

Dr. Bobo had already established himself at our planned rendezvous point campsite, cooler restocked, when Wrongway and I arrived at 5PM. A large cache of 5-gallon water bottles, perhaps forty or so, stood ready to parch the thirst of dehydrated hikers, but Wrongway and I had our own rolling buffet, including drink, at the ready, thanks to Dr. Bobo. I coulda had tequila, but didn't want to dehydrate myself needlessly. However, beer seemed permissible. Wasn’t it?

Dr. Bobo's pop-up bar at Dove Spring Canyon Road & PCT junction.

Dr. Bobo gave us the rundown of his resupply mission earlier in the day. Then, he informed me, “I couldn’t get Prilosec, but did get some Pepcid AC.”

“That’ll do,” I said. I’ll give a try, anyway. I downed a Pepcid tab. Fingers crossed, help is on the way, Prim8.

Though that tab seemed to help regarding my stomach problems for the time being, I considered it too early to make a final determination. I’d noticed my appetite had decreased over the past few days, which I chalked up to my sudden, intense physical exertion, though I’d shifted my diet from cooked meals to that of jerky, dried fruit, nuts, and meat and mozzarella sticks. But who knew why, exactly? Prim8 nor I had sway over what my stomach did … or did not do with what I put into it. As long as it did its job without causing me grief, I’d be satisfied with it.

Wrongway and I set up his tent, ate and discussed logistics of our next segment with Dr. Bobo.

Somewhere in the mix, a southbound hiker paused to chat with Wrongway. I didn’t catch their entire conversation, but afterward Wrongway told me, “He gave me the trail name, ‘Cabo,’” explaining that moniker had been inspired by Cabo de Homos emblazoned on Wrongway’s cap … and not from Cabo San Lucas. “I hate Cabo San Lukas,” Wrongway … er Cabo said. (Henceforth, Wrongway’s trail moniker will be Cabo.)

As had been the previous nights, the evening air grew chilly after sunset. And my hiccups had continued intermittently throughout the day and the night, with occasional brief periods of cessation.

Had that Pepcid tab helped? Apparently, the jury was still out!Boiled down, it was just another problem I’d need to contend with somehow.

Segment Three - Dove Spring Canyon Road junction (621.9) northbound to Walker Pass/Hwy 178 (652.0), one overnight:

10/21/23, Day 5, “One Hot Hump” -

Cabo (formerly known as Wrongway) and I left camp at 8AM. We had little to no shade as we hiked up and over two high points, then past Yellow Jacket Spring trail junction (637.0) before settling on a relatively flat cowboy campsite among the trees and some thirty yards off the trail. We’d wanted to shorten the following day’s leg to Walker Pass. Along the way we replenished our water reserves at Bird Spring Pass, where another large water cache of 5-gallon bottles waited.

Cabo and I looked to the patch of clear sky between the tree cover, chatted about and watched satellites passing overhead, for about a half-hour until I turned onto my side in hopes of sleep.

Aww, Prim8 said, hiccups restarted and lower legs aching as we settled in for the night.

Oh, great! Stiff upper lip and all that, Prim8. We’ll get through this.

Stop, Prim8 demanded, as my hiccups continued.

Dang it! I’m afraid we have no control over that, guy.

10.22.23, Day 6, “Take Me Home … Down Rutted Roads” -

Everything slightly damp, Cabo and I broke camp at 7AM. Fog, aka low clouds, hugged the ridges to our east, pushed by the wind. We encountered no flies. The trail, not ideal for hiking, followed a rutted, rocky dirt road we approached McIvers Cabin.

The trail follows a rutted road near McIvers Cabin.

Cooled by breezes, the sky had cleared when we reached the abandoned cabin (2/10 mile off the trail from 643.8).

The well-used, weather-worn, one-room McIvers Cabin.

We paused for food and water.

Cabo collects water from McIvers Spring.

When we continued on, Prim8 began incessantly griping about achy legs.

Prim8 pauses for a breath on the trail.

Dr. Bobo awaited us at the Walker Pass/Hwy 178 turnout. From there, the three of us headed to Inyokern to gas up M’s RAV4, then to the Indian Wells micro-brewery.

Fair warning for parents at the Indian Wells Brewery, Inyokern, CA!

Yum! Prim8 swooned over my bacon-burger and micro-brewed beer.

Tastes like heaven, doesn’t it, fella?!

Returning to purgatory, at least for me, anyway, the three of us drove to an 8,080-foot campsite along a dirt road connector between Chimney Basin Road and Long Valley Road. After we’d set up our tents, and strategically positioned the RAV4 as a windbreak, of sorts, we grabbed food from Dr. Bobo’s cooler. Gusting wind and lower temperatures made milling about downright unpleasant.

Cold, Prim8 complained. Get warm in the car.

I agree. “Let’s sit in the car,” I said to Cabo and Dr. Bobo.

We occupied the empty seats in M’s RAV4, while our collective gear and food claimed the remainder of interior space. We imbibed in shares of medicinal alcohol, and chatted about plans and whatnot before retiring to our sleeping bags.

Segment Four - Chimney Basin Road trail junction (689.1) northbound to Kennedy Meadows (702.2), no overnight:

10.23.23, Day 7, “Moving Right Along” -

Cabo and I started our hike in cool air, with light to no breeze at 8AM. Headed generally downhill on this segment, we hiked quickly under clear sky and along a tributary of the So. Fork Kern River, and finished at 2:17PM.

Segment Five - Chimney Basin Road trail junction (689.1) southbound to Chimney Basin Road trail junction (687.4), no overnight:

10.23.23, Day 7, “Downhill Glide” -

After we’d driven back to our 8,080-foot campsite, Cabo and I hiked the short downhill section (between mile markers 689.1 and 687.4), where the trail crossed the road and which would shorten our following day’s hike. We hoofed that distance in short order, about 45 minutes.

Segment Six - Chimney Basin Road trail junction (687.4) southbound to Canebrake Road trail junction (680.9 and near Chimney Creek Campground), no overnight:

10.24.23, Day 8, “Getting Tried” -

Cabo and I started our day’s downhill leg in pleasant conditions with some breeze ... and sans flies. At that point, we both felt we needed a “lay day.”

We met Dr. Bobo at the road junction near Chimney Creek Campground at 10:50AM, then drove to the campground where we sorted and moved our gear to M’s RAV4. Dr. Bobo remained at the Chimney Creek Campground, while Cabo and I hightailed it to Ridgecrest and settled on rooms at the Motel Six.

10.25.23, Day 9, “R & R” -

Cabo and I, after a good night’s rest, went to breakfast at Kristy’s.

The previous evening’s weather forecast indicated that an Alaskan storm was moving in, and would dump up to five inches of snow in the Sierras. Surely, temperatures would drop. Cabo and I discussed weather developments, and with the probability of precipitation quite low south of Kennedy Meadow, we decided to continue our trekking, though only after acquiring thermal gear at the local Big 5.

Then, we toured the China Lake Museum Foundation, where we learned about weapons testing and development at the Naval Air Weapons Station China Lake. Had to include some change of pace!

After we’d resorted our gear in M’s car, we rendezvoused with Dr. Bobo at Chimney Creek Campground. Once again, Cabo and I shifted our necessary sleeping and hiking food and gear for the next three days into Dr. Bobo’s car. We left M’s RAV4 at Chimney Creek Campground and headed to Walker Pass Campground for the night.

As sunset approached, clouds increased in the So. Fork Valley, and westward of us, as well as above the ridge line to our east.

Panoramic photo of the sunset from Walker Pass Campground.

After we’d set up our tents, we sat in Dr. Bobo’s car, chatted, discussed hike plans and imbibed doses of medicinal alcohol. Though later by previous evenings’ accounts, we’d hit our sleeping bags by 9:30PM.

A cold wind gusted throughout the night, I guesstimated to speeds between 45-50 mph. A case of indigestion plagued me, as well.

No, no, Prim8 whined.

Too late, now, bud. Perhaps, I should've had that Vodka Mary before we came to bed! After I’d pondered my ailment awhile, I took an antacid Pepcid.

Though still facing the indecision about getting up to pee—eventually, that decision would be beyond my rational mind to control, I knew—but feeling sleepy, though unable to fall asleep, and wondering the time, I made a command decision.

I’ll get up and ready for the day’s hike, Prim8, if it’s after 5:30AM. I checked my cell phone. 1:30AM? Oh, crap!

I got up, anyway, needing to pee, regardless, then updated my trail notes, and awaited Mr. Sandman’s return, hopefully sooner rather than later. A nearly-full moon illuminated the valley landscape to our west, while the breeze continued to shove clouds over the ridges to the east.

An hour later, perhaps, I slid into my sleeping bag again, indigestion eased and trail notes updated, to get some additional rest.

Segment Seven - Walker Pass (652.0) northbound to Canebrake Road trail junction (680.9) near Chimney Creek Campground), one overnight (maybe two ... or three?):

10.26.23, Day 10, “The Big Hump” -

We arose around 7AM, ate and broke camp.

When I checked with Cabo and Dr. Bobo, they suggested that overnight wind speeds had been between 10-35 mph.

Nah, no way. Where had they been? Okay, so maybe winds gusts hadn’t reached 50mph, but were surely higher than 25 mph, regardless, nothing you’d want to face bare-butt.

Dr. Bobo dropped Cabo and I at Walker Pass, where we bid him goodbye and a safe drive home. Then, we turned our attention on ascending the first elevation gain of 3K feet, something I’d been dreading for several days, then a second of 1K feet, both standing between us and M’s RAV4 at Chimney Creek Campground.

Wind gusts up to 30mph, I guessed, kept us cool, reduced our sweating, and consumption of water. All the better, since that meant hauling less water in our packs. Bottom line? Less weight! The eastern sky remained cloud covered, while we proceeded at a steady pace of about two mph.

Author poses on the PCT with China Lake (and a portion

of the Mojave Desert) in the distant background.

Cabo pauses to overlook a portion of terrain in the So. Fork Kern River region.

Reassured of good water at Spanish Needle Creek by a southbound hiker, we declined the detour to Joshua Tree Spring trail (a quarter-mile hike off the PCT to the spring itself), and continued along the trail to a suitable flat campsite. We settled on a level spot at a saddle some half-mile farther along the PCT (approx mile marker 664.3).

Though cool and tolerable in the shade at our arrival, the temperature dropped as sunset neared, necessitating a retreat to our sleeping bags while dressed in full gear, sans boots, of course.

Warm. Good, Prim8 swooned, legs snug in the sleeping bag.

Yeah, you can thank me for the foresight to purchase long-john pants in Ridgecrest.

During my frequent, though uncounted, stirrings throughout the night, my sleeping pad gone flat … again, and I noticed the nearly full moon illuminated the landscape and the air had turned frigid.

10/27/23, Day 11, "A Final Kick" -

At 7AM, when we arose, Cabo’s tent screens were saturated with water, and a thin layer of frost covered the surroundings, including our packs.

Frost covers Cabo's pack.

Both Cabo and I knew we’d endured freezing temperature during the night. We departed the campsite at 7:50AM, as we discussed extending our day’s hiking distance, hoping to avoid another frigid night camped on the trail.

Yeah, Prim8 urged.

We’ll just have to “play things by ear,” fella, and see how far we can comfortably go.

A little low on water, we were relieved to see that, in fact, there was a good flow of water in Spanish Needle Creek which we crossed three times. At one crossing we added a liter or so of water to our loads.

As it ‘twas, we plodded along. A southbound hiker mentioned the previous night’s temperature had dropped to 27 degrees. Whether the temperature at our campsite had dipped that low didn't matter to me.

Cold, Prim8 observed.

Yeah, guy, freezing is freezing. We’d experienced thirty-two degrees, at least, and that was all I’d needed to know!

Our hope increased with each step taken, and the 17-mile trek completed by 3:45PM, we made the PCT junction with Canebrake Road (680.9) near M’s car at Chimney Creek Campground, without undue problem.

Yay! Prim8 celebrated.

Agreed. We’ve avoided another cold night on the PCT.

Everything loaded into M’s RAV4, we headed home. I arrived home at 10:15PM, thoroughly pooped and in need of a shower and soft mattress. (PS: I still hadn’t resolved my leaky sleeping pad issue. But you can bet I’ll do so before our next PCT hike! On the other hand, I hadn’t developed a foot blister on this trip, so I’d successfully avoided that trail misery.)