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You don’t have to save me, you

just have to hold my hand

while I save myself.
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As a freelance writer of creative nonfiction, I write to inspire hope for those struggling to heal from trauma. Thanks for reading my posts. If you'd like to read my archived blog posts, use this link.

Bottom line: No where else is so much hoopla crammed into such a small area.


My wife and I recently completed a three-country visit to Jordan, Egypt and Jerusalem/Bethlehem (Israel) with Uniworld. We felt safe, and encountered no protests, uprisings or hostile action, though some of the merchant vendors in Egypt were on the more insistent side. We weathered blustery winds generally, and rain on two days! In hindsight, we were there during a sweet spot. We started in Amman, Jordan, then flew to Egypt, where we were when Ramadan commenced, and finally visited Israel/Jerusalem/Bethlehem prior to Passover. Since our departure, unfortunately, some disturbances have occurred in “the force.” We’re glad we traveled there, as we thoroughly enjoyed visiting well-know historical sites … ancient by American standards … and the company of other fellow travelers.


A few things I learned in Jordan, mostly from our guide, Mohannad (I hope I’ve spelled his name correctly):


1) “Yalla” in Arabic has various meanings. Depending upon context, it could mean, Let’s go, while “Yalla, yalla” means, Hurry up … but take your time. How’s that for a more polite way to say, Get the lead out!?


2) Bedouins—in Jordan there are many—are those individuals who choose a “nomadic” lifestyle, though not as a result of destitution. Some, wealthy by Jordanian standards, may move twice yearly to locations more favorable weather-wise, occupy permanent or semi-permanent structures, or simply move tents. Many have modern conveniences, such as cell phones, motor vehicles and electrical generators, as we observed when traveling the roads.

A Bedouin awaiting a tour group wanting camel rides?

A Bedouin encampment.

3) Petra’s “Treasury” was a temple, though later people mistakenly believed a treasure had been hidden there.

Janet and I pose in front of the Petra Treasury.

Our Uniworld tour group, "Bus One," poses at the Treasury.


4) Wadi Rum, the desert region bordering southern Jordan, was a filming location for “The Martian,” as well as a number of other films, including “Lawrence of Arabia.”

Awesome views of Wadi Rum awaited no matter where I looked.

A sunset view near Palmera Camp.


5) The Dead Sea lies 1,300 feet below sea level, and has a high salt content, which makes floating in it quite easy, but getting vertical while in it quite difficult. (Self-administered mud baths are free of charge.)

Janet and I float in the Dead Sea like corks.

A contingent of our "Bus One" tour group takes a Dead Sea mud bath.

A few things I learned in Egypt, mostly from our guide, Ahmed:


6) The movie Cleopatra, starring Elizabeth Taylor, is an accurate representation of the famed Egyptian, though Liz’s eyes are the wrong color. (I’ll let you be the judge on that.)


7) The current Egyptian government (replacing the Muslim Brotherhood) embarked on a major construction program to relocate many of their poorer population to better housing. By doing so, they hope to alleviate, or disrupt and reduce, the root causes of religious/political radicalization.


8) Ancient Egyptians worshiped numerous gods and were accepting of each pharaoh's choice of which and how many to worship for the most part—though perhaps not when Tutankhamen ruled, though that’s a long story. As a result, the hieroglyphic record in their temples and tombs depict a plethora of gods, too many for me to keep track of as our guide, Ahmed, pointed them out and quizzed us. The stories told in their temples, intended to be seen by others, depict their prowess, power, strength, and favorable connection to their god(s), and should be considered more like political messages. Their way of saying, Keep me in power, I’ll protect you--an early version of, Vote for me. Sound familiar? Whereas, the stories told in their tombs weren’t intended to be seen by anyone after the tomb was closed. Oops, that hasn’t worked out so well for them! Instead, those messages were intended for their god(s) only … and should be considered gospel. (Pun intended.) By that I mean, those stories reflect what they really believed and how they wanted their god(s) to see them in their final and ever-lasting judgment.

Various Egyptians gods at Komombo Temple. (Don't ask me to name them!)


9) The ancient Egyptians considered the Nile’s west bank as the land of the dead, and thus their pyramids/tombs/graves were primarily located on the side of the “setting sun,” while the living did their thing on the east bank, the side of the “rising sun.” Temples, I’m not so sure about, but it stands to reason that many of those would be on the eastern side. (Note: before it got dammed, the Nile changed course now and then, though stayed within its flood plain.)


Aerial view of the Upper Nile near Luxor. (Note

the narrow flood plain bordered by desert.)


10) The Suez Canal wasn’t the first waterway dug through Egypt’s sands. The pharaohs dug canals connecting the Nile to Red Sea and the Mediterranean. Our guide told us one connected Qena to the Red Sea, a distance of approximately one-hundred-twenty miles.


Ancient Egyptians likely contributed a considerable number of ideas/concepts to us:

11) Ever wonder where the term breakfast originated? Try this. Break fast, as in breaking a fast, which Muslims do every day during Ramadan when they eat their first meal of the day after sunset!


12) Ever wonder where the term, Holy cow, came from? The ancient Egyptians considered cows sacred, or at least some of them did.



A "Holy Cow" on display at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo?


13) Our guide told us the ancient Egyptians originated the concept of infinity—though some would credit the Greeks … but then the Greeks ruled Egypt for a period of time, so who’s to say they didn’t expropriate the idea?


A hieroglyphic representation (snake's double loop)

of the concept of infinity at Esna Temple?


14) The “all-seeing eye,” of justice and/or healing, was the god Horus’ left eye, gouged out in a battle with Set (later renamed Seth by the Greeks). I suspect, this idea was passed on via the Free Masons to become the eyeball atop the pyramid on the US one-dollar bill!

A modern day representation of Horus' "all-seeing eye."

(Note: his left one to be exact.)

The Sphinx and Great Giza Pyramid. (No blog about a trip to

Egypt would be complete without a photo of one of these.)


A few things I learned in Israel/Jerusalem/Bethlehem, mostly from our guide, Eli (pronounced Ellie, and short for Elijah):


15) The Valley of the Shadow of Death, an otherwise small, nondescript valley in current day Jerusalem, served as the location for first-born male sacrifices in past times. Not long, deep, nor dark, it’s bisected by a curvy, two-lane paved street.


A view of the Valley of the Shadow

of Death from the Mount of Olives.

15) Israeli citizens cannot travel into Bethlehem, nor any other Palestinian Authority controlled area. We were transported from Jerusalem to Bethlehem through the “border checkpoint” by a driver who had permission by birth to cross between the two areas. And we had a different guide while in Bethlehem!

Queued at the checkpoint waiting to exit Palestinian Authority

controlled Bethlehem. I did not dare exit the vehicle!

16) The Church of the Nativity, purported site of Jesus’ birth, is utilized by various religions/sects (Catholic, Armenian Apostolic, and Greek Orthodox Church, with minor Coptic Orthodox, Ethiopian Tewahedo Orthodox, and Syriac Orthodox rites) each taking turns to worship by appointment, of sorts.


17) Sites and locations across the entire region are in close proximity. I felt quite stunned that most locations of biblical reference (Christian) where within a few days walk, something difficult to comprehend until I saw it. (I had problems with Jordanian customs twice as result of carrying small binoculars! They’re quite touchy about people sneaking across the Jordanian/Israeli border.)


If you’re so moved to travel to those destinations, in part or all, I recommend utilizing a well-known travel company, such as Uniworld. An established company will be working with locals who are in the know about where to go … and where not to. And you may want to consider cooler months, while also avoiding tourist season.


Walk in beauty.

Bottom line: Travel provides opportunity to open one's eyes to new and different ways of life.

When I travel, I always learn new things, some surprising. That's why I relish it, even when confronted with travel delays, exposure to disease, and theft of property. But I won't dwell on the negatives my wife and I encountered during our travel to parts of southern Europe recently.


Instead, I'll share a few things I didn't know before our trip, just to wet your wanderlust whistle, if nothing else.


1) Porto, Portugal - Located near the confluence of the Douro River and the Atlantic Ocean, Porto occupies the northern bank of the river, while Vila Nova de Gaia, or Porto Gaia, occupies the southern bank. And, as the Douro River Valley has been a major wine producing area for some centuries, Porto Gaia has been the hub for Portuguguese wine production and distribution.


After the British signed the Treaty of Windsor with Portugal in 1386, they imported Portuguese wine with enthusiasm, particularly as their wine source from the France had been stymied by hostilities. In addition, per the advantageous treaty terms, the British invested heavily in Portugal's vinification industry, such as the vineyards and processing facilities in Porto Gaia.


In the late 1600s CE, port wine was invented by adding a "grape brandy" to the wine, which helped preserve the product during shipping. Guess where it's name came from.


FYI, port wine isn't a favorite of mine.

No, that’s not a silhouette of Zorro! I'm posing next to the Sandeman wine logo.

2) Portugal - The combination of the two names Porto and Gaia provided Portugal it's name (Porto + Gaia). Pronounce those quickly and you may see how that happened, particularly when foreigners got involved.

A panoramic view at sunset of Porto (center), flanked by portions Porto Gaia on each side.

3) Lisbon, Portugal - The Portuguese language is difficult to learn, particularly for school children. In Portuguese, Lisbon is spelled Lisboa, and the "i" is pronounced more like a long "e," while the "s" is pronounced as "sh." Try pronouncing Cascais using those two rules!

The Portuguese love small custard tarts or cream pastries, which they call pasteis de nata. Delicious, their cream pastries are consumed in huge quantities by the population. First made about three hundred years ago in a monastery west of Lisbon, egg yolks are a prime ingredient. Be advised, sugar, in a copious amount, is another.

Portuguese pasteis de nata.

Photo Credit: pexels-Magda Ehlers


But, what to do with all that leftover albumen? Egg whites have been used as a binding agent in a variety of ways, including in artists' paints and as a starch to stiffen collars and cuffs.

The Portuguese refer to the conquest of the Americas as "the Age of Discovery." I'll say no more about that.


A Lisbon monument to the explorers during the Age of Discovery.


5) Barcelona, Spain - Antoni Gaudi, an architect, designed numerous buildings in Barcelona in the late 19th century and early 20th. His artist architectural designs demonstrate considerable innovation, even by today standards. However, his name did not generate the term "gaudy," though is commonly associated with the term as a result of his creations.


In 1884 Gaudi worked on redesigning the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona's giant basilica, which is still under construction!

Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain. Note the signs of construction.

6) Madrid, Spain - Restaurant Botin, founded 1725 CE, holds the Guinness Book of Records as the oldest established restaurant in the world. The restaurant's forte is suckling pig.



Janet anticipates eating suckling pig.

Janet and I pose in front of Restaurant Botin.

Not the original building, I suspect!


Janet and I preferred the impressionist works at the Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum to the historic religious-oriented works in the Prado Museum.


Claude Monet, The Thaw at Vetbeuil, 1880.

7) Marseilles, France - The oldest city in France has retained relative independence since founded over twenty-five hundred years ago, including during Roman and Nazi German occupations.

Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, atop the hill, overlooks Marseille.


8) Monaco - This principality constitutes the second smallest country in Europe, and covers 499 acres or .75 square miles.


Citizens of Monaco, Monegasques, are forbidden to gamble in the casinos, though can enter one, if they work there.


Casino de Monte Carlo in Monaco, made more

famous by the James Bond movie, Casino Royale.


9) Pisa, Italy - The Campanile, aka bell tower or Leaning Tower of Pisa, has companion buildings. One, known as the Baptistery, also leans. There appears no danger of either toppling anytime soon, however.

The Baptistery (foreground) and Campanile (background).


10) Pompeii, Italy - The inhabitants, who hadn't already left when the heavy blanket of ash fell during the Vesuvius eruption of 79 CE, were suffocated and burned by a pyroclastic flow, a cloud of hot, noxious gas. Once the pyroclastic flow approached from Vesuvius, those remaining in Pompeii had insufficient time to outrun it, even if they’d seen it coming. What we see today of the victims--parts of Pompeii remain unexcavated for future archeologists--are the shapes of plaster casts of the hollows created by their bodies in the ash layer that covered them.

This victim has been identified as a pregnant female of about twenty years old.


11) Rome, Italy - Ancient Romans consumed parrots and flamingos, among other things, and ate while reclining. Perhaps, that's why they purged so much?

It's virtually impossible to look around the city of Rome without seeing a religious structure, such as a Roman temple or Catholic basilica.

Look closely, you’re bound to see a church or temple somewhere.


Vatican City, confined within the city of Rome, comprises the smallest country in Europe at 109 acres or .19 square miles.


Long lines dissuaded us from entering the Vatican’s St. Peter’s Basillica.


12) The Straight of Messina, Italy – A swimmer could easily cross this gap if not for the strong currents, as it is only 1.9 miles wide. Would you guess that by examining a map?


Italian mainland (left) and Sardinia (right) separated by the Strait of Messina.

13) Corfu, Greece - The Byzantine Paleokastritsa Monastery, established in the 1220's CE and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, sits aside cliffs along a rugged coastline and overlooking clear, azure waters.


A view of the Mediterranean Sea, only steps away from the Paleokastritsa Monastery.

14) Korcula, Croatia - Some believe Marco Polo was born here, though others believe he was born in Venice. Note that Venice ruled Korcula at that time, and Marco Polo lived in Venice for a while, and so those two facts likely have confounded the issue.


Korcula, Croatia, a small, yet beautiful Adriatic Sea town.


The Adriatic Sea for all practical purposes is an extension of the Mediterranean Sea, but who’s quibbling?

15) Dubrovnik, Croatia - The city's history dates back about fourteen hundred years. The relatively unspoiled and rugged Dalmatian coastline near Dubrovnik meets pristine waters of the Adriatic Sea.


Dubrovnik, Croatia, with its old walled city (left) dating back to the Middle Ages.


16) Venice, Italy - The waters surrounding Venice are quite murky, partly due, I suspect, to the Venetian toilets that flush directly into it! So, I don't recommend swimming there.

The iconic view of St. Mark's Square, Venice, from the water.


Tourists swarmed the streets and popular sites of Venice like ants at a picnic. Venice is implementing a tourist surcharge starting January, 2023, as a result of the increased number of visitors.


Tourists on an adjacent bridge as seen from the Bridge of Sighs near St. Mark's Square.


A last view of Venice from the air.

My wife and I had a worthwhile adventure, to say the least.

The world awaits. Go forth on your own adventures and walk in beauty.

Updated: May 9, 2023

My “Once Upon A Kentucky Farm” book signing at Chaucer's Books on May 9, '22 was a rousing success.


Interviewed by Rachel Sarah Thurston, State of Sparkle, we discussed my process writing this memoir, which is about my navigation of dysfunctional family abuse and how I found healing during my childhood visits to my maternal grandparents’ farm in rural Kentucky.


The early portion of the event.



I read an excerpt.


Then, I signed copies!


Many thanks to Mike Takeuchi and Chaucer's Bookstore and all of my friends and loved ones who attended this event in support of me.


Walk in beauty.

You can email me:

connard@connardhogan.com

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